ása bríet brattaberg

ástandið
ma knitwear, institute francais de la mode 2025
yarn sponsors: Filpucci
photographer: Viðar Logi
model: erna lilja

this collection draws from Iceland’s transformation during the second world war, a time known as “ástandið” or “the situation.” icelandic women, caught the eye of the handsome american soldiers who had arrive in iceland. they were between tradition and modernity, embraced global influences brought by american soldiers—cinema, music, fashion—while navigating societal judgment and change.

at the heart of my collection is a love story between an icelandic woman and a u.s soldier.
when he departs, all she has left of him is his jacket. as time passes and memories of their love start to fade, so does the jacket—gradually deteriorating, fraying, and falling apart. yet, driven by her love for craft and preservation, she begins to mend it, piecing it back together stitch by stitch. this narrative is woven into the garments through a balance of deconstruction and repair. military-inspired structures unravel and are reassembled through delicate knitwear techniques.

the collection explores themes of love, loss, memory, and the act of preserving the past through craftsmanship. each piece tells a story of something once whole, then broken, and finally restored—echoing the emotions of those left behind when love becomes a memory.